Top 10 Things that Must Go

Things that must Go ( in Istanbul)

1. Mosquitos
2. Heat + Humidity
3. Cars & Motorcycles-especially Taxis (yes all cars speed, take no notice of pedestrians. I have probably come close to being hit 3 times! I've never felt more like flipping a driver off more in my life- though I have not done it yet)
4. Litter
5. Smoking cigarettes in restaurants
6. Bartering & Haggling (list your price! and no separate prices for tourists just because you look foreign you automatically look like you have a lot of money to spend)
7. Lack of Variety in Feminine Hygeine Products
8. Cat Fights at night
9. Brad not asking for directions
10. The call to prayer or a hundred squaking birds waking you up at 4 am!

The things you stumble upon...

The thing I have noticed about Istanbul is you never count on the same dull drum day. There is always something going on in this city, and new places you find just walking around. And walking around we do!

#1 A huge beautiful park!

While walking around (lost) trying to find the place where they moved the Ottoman Archives we stumbled upon this beautiful park. Probably 3 miles of a pathway bordered by colorful flowers and TALL TALL trees, soft grass, and three relaxing fountains- a mirage for the city dweller. I was happy to find that this lovely park is right down the street from the Archives, so while Brad does research in the afternoon I spend my time sitting on a bench with my ice cream cone or on my back gazing up at these trees with a good book. A relaxing summer it is.

#2 Brad's Favorite Restaurant

Across the Bosphorus on the Asian side of Istanbul Brad discovered his favorite restaurant. A romantic ferry ride and small walk and you are there. The food was surprising- you load your plate from this salad bar type thing and then they weigh your plate for the price- hmmm? So I thought that was weird but then you taste the food and wow- that chef is brilliant. Everything on my plate was delicious and I don't know if I've ever tasted better bread. We highly reccomend Ciya.

#3 A Parade? On the 4th of July?

So we were kind of down on the 4th due to missing out on barbaques, parades, and fireworks in the states. We looked up the address for the U.S Consulate but found they were closed and no mention of a celebration. So we decided to see a movie in English with Turkish subtitles. The only available was Angels and Demons. We had a bit of time to wait after we got our tickets and heard some commotion going on Istiklal Caddesi- a parade? It turned out to be a huge parade for the International Dance Festival. Dancers were dressed in there countries traditional dancing apparell. Most all countries were represented but no USA. But the parade was much fun. After our movie we wanted a taste from home so we went to Pizza Hut. The crust was good the cheese and pizza sauce were good but the toppings- not authentic. Pepperoni was not pepperoni. Note to self stay clear of American chains outside of the U.S. We ended the night with a scrabble game where Brad reclaimed his champion status but I still hold the highest scoring record.

Ankara, Bosphorus University, & The Grand Bazzar

Weekend in Ankara

It has been a busy past week! Last Thursday we headed out of the city on a bus to Ankara (the capital of Turkey) for Brad's research conference. Getting out of the city was alot more of a hassle then you might think because there are only three ways over to the Asian side of Istanbul- two bridges and by ferry. With 17million people plus tourists going back and forth every day it was quite busy but quite organized. We took the ferry which was idyllic because of the breeze and great pictures of the city and sites. Once we got to Asia we got tickets for a luxury bus to Ankara complete with air conditioning, icecream, treats and beverages. 8.5 hours after we left our apartment we arrived at the Deiderman Hotel where the conference put us up. It was my first time in a 5 star hotel and I suppose I expected alot more- but then I had the food and I understood- Yumm! So Brad took off to his conference the next day and left me a lone wife to chill in the hotel and explore Ankara. After taking advantage of the fitness center and watching Rachel Ray in Turkish I ventured out to downtown Ankara. Having no map or ablitity to say anything in Turkish besides hello, I was in search of a beauty salon where I could get a pedicure (I'm really not this pampered girl who gets pedicures all of the time but when you travel you can't be caring around your personal pedicure set). So I wandered about and just when I was about to hate the Turkish for their lack of salons- I found a sign for a manikur and pedikur. Yeah! it was my own personal miracle and a customer even spoke English inside to help me set up an appointment. I had a bit until my appointment so I decided to get lunch. I found a quaint outdoor restaurant and ordered something I had never had before Iskender Kabob- recommended by my quide book. When it came out I thought- what did I order- but then I thought of what people must think when they first get American food. So I tried it with and open mind and....it was very good. So I was very proud of myself ordering food and a pedicure all by myself without speaking a bit of Turkish. The next day I attended the conference with Brad and got to see him present- he was so elequent and did a great job. I now understand more of his research and the importance it has on this region. Other professors liked his presentation too and quoted his research as the conference continued. After the conference we were treated to a 4 course most amazing meal at the 5 star restaurant and spent the rest of the afternoon in utter content. The next day the conference hosted a tour of the historic city starting with a tour of the Mosoleum of Attaturk (their George Washington) who overthrew the Ottoman empire and set up a democracy in 1923. The architecture of his memorial was much like the Lincoln Memorial. From there we went to Old Ankara and dined in a Historic hourse converted Museum and Restaurant. Then we checked out the Ankara Museum of Ancient Civilization and saw really cool old things. Our final stop was a Mosque built in the 1200s and then afternoon tea and drinks in an idyllic cafe. We left the next morning already missing the hotels continentel breakfast as soon as we left. It took 9 hours to get all the way back to our apartment- yuck- but on the way I did find a Mavi Jeans store (best jeans ever) and got some for an incredibly great deal. At home we decided we were both done with Turkish food for the time being and happily found a fun pizza restaraunt that tasted American- yum.

Bosphorus University

So after walking around for hours (literally!) and trying to figure out where we pay our water and electric bill we decided to go to Bosphorus University. And awe what a haven it was. Up in the luciously green hills with all of the city sounds, and sweltering heat far below. Brad said this was the most beautiful University Campus, and yes I do agree. I don't know anywhere that can compare to walking to school with amazing views of the Bosphorus. Wow. I think this may be my favorite spot in Istanbul. While we were enjoying the views we met a very kind Turk who gave me a good luck charm- I'm pointing to it on my shirt, to ward off the evil eye, and told us about his Istanbul. When we reached campus I was so happy to see grass! The kind of grass that says "kick off your shoes and take a nap on this cool carpet." It was a site for sore eyes of being in a huge city and seeing only concrete each day. We even played some card games. A lovely afternoon.

The Grand Bazzar

So today after a walk to the Archives and doing some research, Brad treated me to a visit to the Grand Bazzar. This is the famous location of peddling and bargaining that Istanbul has been the home of since the Silk Road. Famously old, huge, and full of merchandise that is undescribable as well as sales men with determination, it is a huge tourist attraction. Unfortunately I found it too big with too much of a selection and too hot. I much prefer a smaller store with 50 purses to choose from instead of 500. How can you enjoy shopping when you are overwhelmed with choices. Doesn't work for me. But Brad gets the award as the sweetest husband as he followed me from shoe store to purse store to shoe store probably bored out of his mind, tired, and hot. What a sweet guy.

If I were a rich man...

It's hard not to want to have a lot of frivolous money and spend that money shopping after a few hours cruising Istiklal Caddesi (Brad luckily stayed home to work on his paper for Friday's conference). Yet with the up bring Brad and I have been blessed with the realization of need vs. want runs through my head thankfully settling my shopaholic impulses and grounding me to our budget. Regardless I do enjoy window shopping especially when it comes to shoes. I'm debating between these in particular- I need some black dress sandals that I can wear to work so no stilletos. My others just broke after a good ten years of wear so I guess that abides with moms phrase drilled in my head "use it up, wear it out, fix it up, or do without." Angie also requested pictures of the shops. My favorites were two I've never heard of before Coquet (a darling 2 story accessory shop and Mango. They may be in the states but I don't go to the mall to much so they were new to me. What shoes do you vote for?

2 of 30 in an LDS branch

Here are our first weeks pictures. The apartment pics didn't turn out so well on the slide show so I will post them separately. So today we set out for church a 40 minute walk and on the seventh floor of an old building which you get to on an elevator that would make anyone feel claustraphobic and we found a multicultural group of saints. Some Turks, some Ethiopians, Some Fillipinos, some Americans and some Norweigan people all gathering for an LDS church service. However due to the language barriers and few translators most of us just tried to feel the spirit and it only lasted 2 hours instead of the regular 3 hour block. The branch president who is Turkish spoke in sacrement meeting and it was very moving. What would that be like to love the people of your country but not be able to share the gospel or have your church legally recognised. The pain was on his face and also the hope of when the day will come that he can share his joy in the gospel with his people freely. It was very moving. There was even a senior missionary couple that just got here from Bountiful, UT doing a humanitarian mission. The sister missionary agreed with me about the change in environment from back home- especially all of the walking we do here. I made friends with a Turkish girl who is investigating the church. She does not speak English very well but she did understand my invitation of going shopping together and then Brad translated the details for both of us. We might have to bring Brad along on our shopping excursion as a translator- I'm sure he would love that:) Tonight in the spirit of keeping the sabbath day holy we made dinner from scratch! Well at least the sauce- onions, tomatoes, olive oil, and tyme with a bit of sugar, salt, and pepper made a delicious spaghetti sauce. And I have to write about Brad's victory tonight with Frog Juice. After dozens of times of me taking the win and Brad getting frustrated (we are a very competitive couple when it comes to trivial games) he finally won tonight and went to bed proud- and I really didn't LET him win (or did I...).

Here are some pictures of our apartment

Turkish Baklava vs. Bad's Baklava

So today we took it easy and hung out at our apartment most of the day. I figured out how to do laundry in a Turkish washing machine and found it takes quadruple the time of the washing machine I have at home. And instead of a dryer we have a huge rack that takes up most of the space. It would have been kind of fun to have a line outside connecting to the next building like most of the locals. It would probably dry faster too. I am discovering the joy of fresh baked bread every day- sometimes even a couple times every day. A loaf cost about 25 cents and is delicious with fresh fruit and veggies. Apparently tomatoes and cucumbers grow like weeds over here and so you eat them a lot because they are so cheep. We put together a Greek salad complete with olive oil and feta type (sharp!) cheese. Brad has been working on a paper he presents next week and I have been planning out the sites I want to see as well as studying the latest research in my field- I was told once in a conference "Professionals never stop educating themselves." Anyhow I think I am getting more used to Istanbul including the time change! and am really coming to enjoy the food and nightlife. I tried a new pasta cheese dish for dinner and discovered dark chocolate/nutella filled borek (a filo pastry)-Angie you would love this! Then we cruised Istiklal with the rest of the Turks and tourists and discovered a dessert bar. Just looking in the windows made your mouth water. I tried the Turkish baklava but was somewhat dissapointed as it was made with Pistachios instead of almonds or walnuts. Brad's baklava is still my favorite.

The Joy of Jet Lag -Day 3

So it is now almost 12:00 in Istanbul and thanks to my 4 hour afternoon nap, because my body could just not move anymore without sleep, I am wide awake listening to Jason Mraz while Brad is sleeping. I've been exploring more of the area and reading up on the history of Turkey which helps me understand a lot of the sites and culture. I even had a vigorous conversation with Brad about the concept of nationalism in the middle east which is something he has studied for the past 3 years and I have studied for 2 days. I think that is pretty good. He got his info from PhD classes and lots of work while I got my info from a quick read in The Lonely Planet Guide Book. Well studying the guide book has made me more excited about our apartment location- as we are right by Istiklal Caddesi "the heart of modern Turkey." Seriously this is the street/shop/restaurant hangout of the whole city. Great location!

Well as it does life happened and I guess on the plane due to a sleeping pill/makeup issue I got something lodged in my eye creating a minor eye infection. So yesterday afternoon we walked to a Hospital and I saw an eye doctor where I was told to wear my glasses and use drops for five days. What an experience- I'm sure glad Brad knows how to take care of situations like this. After the doctors visit we cruised the street like the rest of the Turks and tourists and found the most charming restaurant where we dined outside with a view of a huge famous old tower- called Galato and has something to do with the Galation people.

Today we treked to the Archives (probably a 4 mile walk up and down cobblestone streets). When we finally got there we we were told it has been moved. So we walked some more blocks and found it amongst a bunch of gated governement buildings guarded by a soldier carrying a machine gun. This was somewhat a shock - you are used to officers carrying hand guns but a machine gun was alot more intimidating. Brad got his new ID badge at the Archives and then we headed back to the apartment - this time on the Metro. Istanbul has a very well developed Metro system and my brother Jon would be truly impressed with the huge pulley that gets the metro up those steep hills. Waking back to the apartment we stopped at a cafe for borek a most delicious pastry filled with cheese or meet -somewhat like a sausage roll. Back at the apartment - exhausted I took a 4-5 hour nap- which would have been 1 am Salt Lake time while Brad worked. The weather has been just lovely, mostly because we are located by the sea with a nice cross breeze. For dinner we checked out the corner market and I was pleased to find some familiar vegetables and cooking ingredients. We got these cookies called Biscotti (short bread cookies filled with rich dark chocolate). I will have to bring some home for people to try. They were just delicious. With the help of the guidebook I am now making a list of all the things I want to see and do here in Istanbul seeing a "football" game and shopping are on the list, while I am also trying to have an adventuresome view of trying new foods. We will see what tomorrow brings.